2003 Hawaii, Old School, Weed & The Split.

 Its interesting Rip Curl put Tami on my badge. I haven't gone by that name since I lived in Hawaii. 

(except I used 'my' instead of 'i') 

In 2001, for Thanksgiving, Rip Curl sent Mark and I to Oahu for the Vans Triple Crown. We had VIP seats for the Rip Curl Cup held at Sunset Beach. The waves were big and the surfing exciting as usual, especially with a drink in your hands and VIP food. Even though Mark had been to the islands many times since we moved away, this was the first time I had been there since I left in December of 1981. It was clear the North Shore had been bitten by the surf industry's retail Jezebel. A lot of changes had been made to the real estate, and, to those using it, but, that difference may be because I was older this time around.

We stayed in a big house at Laniakea. I had always enjoyed that break when I lived on the North Shore, it and it's neighbor Chun's Reef. One morning a girl staying in the house and I, walked to Chun's and paddled out. We caught it at 4 to 6 foot clean and uncrowded. That session reminded me of the good old days. Then every surfer from Waimea Bay to Haleiwa woke up and paddled out.

I want to say something here about calling wave heights. When you hear someone telling you how big the waves are you can tell where in the US they're from. On the West coast the waves are measured by the face. In Hawaii they call waves by the backs, which a West Coaster would have to double. For example 4 to 6 Hawaiian style is equal to 8 to 12 Cali. The East coast calls waves using the human body. They say, "It's knee to waist," or, "it's head high." During the summer we usually use ankle to knee. Henceforth, an 8 to 12 foot wave in Cali. equals a two foot over head, to double over head in Cape Hatteras or Sebastian Inlet...but waves like that pretty much only happen during hurricane season.

On Thanksgiving night Mark and I were attending a party at the Volcom house when Owen Wilson showed up. The place went wild with mayhem. Personally, I had lost my star strictness a long time ago, but I couldn't help maneuvering for a look at his cute face with that famous nose. I never saw it. The place was Animal House everywhere. Somehow I ended up near the bathroom, so I decided to get in line. While waiting I was offered some weed. After pondering it for a spell, I smiled and shook a grateful "thank you but no." The surfer smiled back and nodded, then with his hand motioned me to shut the bedroom door. I did, simultaneously, I opened that door in my head. For the first time I pondered weed again. I knew Mark had it around the house somewhere, so it was easy to come by....and why not? I thought, maybe it would connect the dots between Mark and I better.

Maui, Hawaii

Jumping forwards....

In 2003 Sarah and I spent our Spring Breaks in Paia, Maui. I rented a Mustang convertible so we could look like every other tourist. Not really, I just wanted topless speed on the fine Maui roads, and, Sarah wanted the wind in her hair. I concluded that even though I have a high respect for Mustangs, they have a lot of lose play on turns. They're slippery. Nissans and Infinities have such good handling on curves. They get low and tight. This was the moment I realized I had become a foreign car snob.

Anywho...

This Hawaiian vacation would bring me and my daughter face to face with David, Ethel, and Ray from the Huntington Beach days (see: the 1970s). Both Ray and Ethel looked the same, David however, had found some extra pounds. Ethel was a school teacher now and had trail bikes for us to ride. She took Sarah and I on a three hour ride in the beautiful hills above Paia. Ethel and I also surfed a couple of times at her favorite break near the bay. At one point she told me about some weed she had in her freezer. "I got it two years ago. It should still be good since its been frozen." she said. I passed. 

Ray and Ethel

David and Ray worked for Gott Glassing in Haiku. David had gotten married and was living the good nuclear life. Ray had rented a small place behind David and was splitting his time between Calif. and Maui. Because Ray's work schedule was flexible he was able to take me to surf spots where the waves were bigger and cleaner like Paukulalo. Sarah hung out at the hotel and flirted with the wind surfers who were in town for a contest. 

One day we all took a drive around the island to check out the waves on the Lahnina side. After surfing a small but consistent break near Honokowai we had food and drinks and filled Sarah's ears with stories of high school and Newport Beach. The day ended with us having dinner at David's place with his family and Ray. We watched old surf movies the two had made while surfing Baja in the 70s. Then Ray and I took Sarah back to the hotel and went out for drinks. We spent a charming evening reminiscing.   

Back on Pleasure Island Mark and I had finished remodeling our new CB condo. We also put a camera on the back deck that showed the waves at Sunskipper; a heavily localized, hard slamming, surf spot. The local surfers didn't like the camera and would climb the railings to spray stuff over the lens. Eventually that stopped when the locals realized how helpful the camera really was. When hurricane Isabel came through the camera became the most watched along the coast of NC. (Isabel was the hurricane that created Isabel Inlet south of Frisco in Cape Hatteras.)  

Back at home the waves were fantastic!

My local spot

This year Mark and I took a trip to Ixtapa Mexico and stayed at the luxurious Casa Buenaventura. I fell in love with the waves at Las Saldita and Trocones. They were a fun 4 to 8 feet the whole time with lots of glassy right and left point breaks. One day we drove up to Pascuales. The waves were huge! That place can get more slamming than Playa Hermosa in Costa Rica. I'll have to admit, I stayed on the beach reading my book. 

On this trip I entered the pondering door I had opened in Hawaii, 2001. I smoked weed for the first time since 1981. Mark got some from a local and we partook of the not-so-hot green seedy stuff. I had forgotten how peaceful a weed high can be. It also took away the pain in my neck that had hit sleepless night status. That trip to Mexico turned my proverbial leaf, happening to be Cannabis. Mark was elated, but that elation wouldn't last. 

When we got back home I was struck with the controversy of how Sarah would see my weed use and I felt hypocritical. I kept it hidden from her for awhile, only smoking occasionally. I was smoking cigarettes more (go figure that reasoning). The truth was, in 2003 I was walking the fence of personal compromise looking for a nice place to jump down, and deep inside, I was okay with that. Unfortunately, my new freedom didn't help Mark and I. We still had relating issues, even when we were high, so, compromise equaled more confusion everywhere. 

The year ended with Mark moving to the condo.

"All the writers of confessions from Augustine on down, have always remained a little in love with their sin."   Anatole France (1844-1924)